Important Note

A statement looking to a future of Moly-Fusion™ from Jonathan and letter from Skeeter, in its original format:

Dear friend, here’s a heads up. The most common thread overlooked by many is MolyFusion™ is different than anything and everything else you will know about. Even more than that, that it is something special, not just as a product. Also as further explanation, an overview of what is coming for Engines Plus, since it itself is so unique.

The most important thing when you are discussing Fusion with others, dry film and conversion coatings: Pure solids, as in all Moly-disulfides, Teflon®, “Dry-Film lubricants, ” Sulfates and graphites (as found in engine pre-assembly lube), all dissipate with the application of oil, water, solvents, or combination thereof. Also it is different from chlorine conversion coatings, temporary (loses its grip VERY quickly or gets rapidly “sheared off” as Prolong® advertisement (information, not attack) says, and MUST be replenished regularly for it to work. It is a chlorinated oil, not a paraffin) chlorine (salted stuff) to metal surfaces. (Chlorine (lots of it is salt form) is the second-most reactive chemical, and is used in Militec1® (The first Gun chlorine conversion product,) but for engines, Prolong® (Online it seems to me to says it is a chlorinated product, just not a “CP” or Chlorinated Paraffin (Wax), but claimed superior to ones they tested in that it bonds longer molecules-versions that don’t over time but not producing the chlorine as normal chlorine molecules but are replaced from the oil as long as there are more molecules of it in the oil to “interfere” between scrubbing surfaces), Duralube®, MotorUp®, and Militec1® are all examples of specific products sold for engine use but are in no way the same as Moly-Fusion™. Note NO implication they’re not what they say. In fact they all, as is everything else, is what it is – only that they’re different.

As for independent anti-scrubbing qualities, none of them are capable of doing in testing so far in high-power center-fire barrels: the barrels only VS Moly-Fusion™, which is an aggressive, abrasive, high temperature, no-oil, then solvent environment – and being what Moly-Fusion is specifically engineered to produce.

All non-conversion, colloid-type and “solid film” products, are just solid, oil, solvent in combination with each other. Also Moly-Fusion™ is the technology (the paste): It is not mixed with oil as it is. It is the additive. It is a super-concentrate because it is not diluted. Like I told the Discover Magazine (discover.com) years ago, it is claimed to be a super laboratory coating anyone with $20.00 in their pocket (even in 1998) can buy some pure stuff and experiment around with it. Sorry, (to others that don’t measure up) I believe in ‘Moly-Fusion™”, as different from others and superior in some ways. Different.

However, there may be repackaging Moly-Fusion with grease and oil, but no mentioning it by name, but by inference only (description of the technology, but not what and not how much, which is the way of the company - so it could be anything or nothing at all.) The description is brand new – so I presume they bought 5 ounces of Moly-Fusion, and they can make up from 10-40 gallons of stuff with just 5 ounces .5 oz. treats an engine.

MolyFusion™, however, depending on how deliberately it is applied (not by accident) becomes progressively more difficult to remove even after flushing with oil, water, solvents, sandpaper, and even filing (With a metal file with teeth.)

Here is an accident: something he shouldn’t have done, but MolyFusion™ was used to quench (not just applied hot) to a piece of carbon steel, and one edge was too slippery, as in the metal on top moved too quickly, (felt like slick grease) so start with removing all residue with solvents, then sandpapering with 400 grit rough (wet r dry) sandpaper for Aprox. 2 minutes, and then file the edge with a jewelers shaping file: but the file could not be made to bite into the surface even with manly force. So there you have it: the difference between Moly-FUSION™ and oil. It makes metal surfaces the military has been working to create – as in bullet-proof surfaces. Also, it was heat-reacted to used and a worn-out drill bit AND the work surface too, and it failed to bite into the surface after that – kind of the file on the metal. (Note the file was not a new file with factory edge – but was probably like a marble on the steel after it still had MolyFusion that wasn’t completely destroyed with the sandpaper and solvents.)

MolyFusion’ed™ drill bit should only be a new factory edge drill bit – nice and sharp: Caution: and never too much: it might NOT be of any use after that: another difference of MolyFusion™ and competition: drill-proof steel (even with a Moly-Fusion’ed™ bit) is pretty impressive.

- written from verbal discussion of two “failed” experiments of “Skeeter27red” – but learning more about the science of cutting: and what is sharp enough to bite into a friction-reduced surface. The reason for the warnings is because it works as promised (MolyFusion™.)

Here’s an actual letter from the famous skeeter27red, Greg - to work friends, whom started out using it in small caliber firearms together with automobile use, and no so much the more: making gun barrels with it the likes of which are the best of class, but don’t take my word for it, check out rimfirecentral.com. The words, 2006.

• Moly Fusion re-writes the book on metal treatment technology!
• Not an additive, but an actual surface conversion treatment!
• DOES NOT contain powdered metal product, including Moly-disulfide!
• It is different than anything containing Moly-Disulphide, because it becomes a fusion with the metal, rather than being on the metal.
1. Use the Moly Fusion treatment product to treat a V-8 engine.
2. In my testing, I found it easiest to heat up the Moly fusion bottle in a microwave, for about 35-60 seconds. It should be about the same temperature as a good, hot cup of coffee (about 140-160 degrees. You can also do this by soaking the bottle in hot water for about 20 minutes, if a microwave is not available, or leave it out in bright sunlight for a period of time works, too.
3. Shake the bottle, and stir as necessary to ensure that the Moly Fusion has completely emulsified itself into the oil. You can also re-pour some more oil into the Moly Fusion container (use the same oil that you normally use in your cars’ engine), and repeat this process to ensure that you have gotten all of the Moly Fusion product out of the container.
4. Pour the Moly Fusion into the motor through the oil fill hole, as you normally would, I like to have the motor running while I do this, but it is not necessary. It is a good idea to pour in the bottle immediately before driving the vehicle for some distance, to get the product spread into the motor, treating all of the moving parts while the product is still in its “Suspended” or “Emulsified” form. This way, it will spread much more readily, and give faster results.
5. I like to introduce Moly Fusion when I do an oil change, but you can add it anytime, and it will still work.
6. You will almost immediately notice that there is less drag on your vehicle, and it takes less throttle to accomplish the same thing. You will go up hills easier, the motor will sound smoother, and it will accelerate easier.
7. In order to save fuel, you have to be aware these things, and use your own judgement to take advantage of these circumstances. Moly Fusion will not save you anything, if you run around stomping on the throttle like an idiot.
8. Added benefits are that your motor will last longer, because it isn’t wearing metal against metal like it was, now, the converted metal surfaces are no longer creating any friction.
9. Moly Fusion will work better if you continue to re-treat it on the first oil change after its original introduction, then once every other year after that. The reason is that Moly Fusion is especially attracted to other than copper-based and other than titanium-based metals (steel and aluminum), so it is a simple matter of how many square inches of treatment you get from an application. A second application ensures that all metal surfaces have been converted, and there is a “Surplus” of Moly fusion available to keep the converted surfaces treated.
• I have included a free bottle of Moly Fusion treatment oil for your use/enjoyment. It has tons of uses, basically anywhere you would use the old “3-in-one” oil, and many, many more.

Here’s but a few:
Ice Skate blades, chain saw, go-kart, drill bits, shears, band saw blades, electric shavers, blender motor, wheels/bearings on just about anything.
Use on: All series of steel and stainless steel, iron, Aluminum, chrome plated surfaces.

We are just finishing the packaging/directions, etc. for this new formulation and application of Moly Fusion, and hope that you will enjoy its many benefits. Myself or someone else may follow up and may ask some questions about your “Moly Fusion experience”, including the results.
Feel free to contact me by any means possible with any questions that you may have.
Feel free to email any results and pictures.
Moly Fusion is non-toxic, but the Mineral oil in the free sample of oil (the small bottle) should not be ingested, but if it is, do not induce vomiting, call a physician.
Thanks for your order, I am sure you will be happy with your results, especially with today’s rising gas prices again!!!

(Written date 2006, the 2006 gas high price) - 7/28/07