TIPS FOR PARKERIZING Supplement Directions, The Current version ships with kit.

PROCESS: Parkerizing (Phosphating) produces a conversion process with acid to the metals being parkerized, and bonds new metals onto the surface of the existing metals. This results in a corrosion resistant surface, crystalline structure which accepts impregnation of oils and protectants, and resist corrosion many times better than bluing, or black-oxide finish. The new finish is literally melted or “welded” with the existing surface, which is better than the chemical bond of paints. In general, the exact color is incidental or “accident” rather than the process. The bubbling or fizzing is a result of the conversion process, and once this stops, as a rule, the Parkerizing (The bulk of it, anyway) is completely done at this time.
Color change continues to deepen for about a week after parkerizing, until final color is achieved.
Caution:For parts where the fizzing does not stop right away due to metal or contaminant, and the part is either Parkerized, as shown by full color, or will not color completely, do not let it sit longer, as etching of the metal will take place - until there is no part left over.

Parkerizing Solution concentrates contain acids and metals dissolved within it. Heavy Duty Parkerizing contain metals beyond what you find in the &Quot;Home Brew&Quot; Variety. Small parts, like screws can be inserted into a plastic jug or on a stainless screen and juggled regularly for uniform coverage/treatment.

Equipment Tips:

• Plastic can be used provided it will withstand 200 degrees F + and you use an internal heater that the core will withstand 200 degrees F + Parkerizing solution. – For a cheap Heater that will take care of up to about Gallons, go to Home Depot and get an $8.00 Ceramic 10KW 115V Hot water heating element. This or another low-cost heater element is inserted below the water line of cut down plastic drum, $12.00 Plastic “Mud” tray, or similar.
• Thermometer can be a glass candy thermometer (I prefer the one with the red wood insert made in Wisconsin) or a stainless steel commercial candy or cake thermometer, as found in a Restaurant Supply Store.
• Measuring cup that measures in ounces
• Tongs (8 inches or more) Stainless steel or high temperature - rated Plastic-Nylon

Cleaning and Degreasing:

• Adding water to replace evaporated water:
  • If you have a line scribed, etched, etc. in the container, you will know how much to add. (Or record the measured difference from the solution surface to the top of the container with a plastic or stainless rule.)

    For an alternative to finding cheap sandblasting equipment, a "simple" yet effective technique that has the following drawbacks: 1. The Parkerizing process takes longer; 2. The Parkerizing Solutions will treat less parts. “But” yields results sandblast cannot achieve for restoration of some parts like being less aggressive. Brushing the parts periodically in the direction of tooling marks with a stainless steel brush and reinserting the parts into the Solution until desired color is achieved. What the concept is is using the Park itself to create the sandblast effect, while not removing the tooling marks.
  
  It requires thermal and acid proof gloves if you are going to be handling small parts by hand: like using a cotton-insert glove for the heat insulation and Rubber for the acid protection.

  Storage of still-good solution:

  • Low-cost gallon jugs, durable enough to safely store cooled solution: Windshield Washer Fluid (Blue kind, not the pink) jugs with caps will work fine, and once rinsed are contaminate free.
  • To keep build-up of sediment from being a problem, strain out the sediment using clean strainer, cheesecloth, etc before storage. Ideal is a paint screen type, which is finer than window screen, but courser than coffee filter: coffee filter clogs too quickly, and becomes useless.

  Neutralizer use:

  • It is helpful to after each soak to take a cloth rag, with neutralizer on it, and wipe it on, in, off at the same time. For spray adapter use of the solution, dunk part in water or running water to prepare it a bit first, then use a basin for excess.
  • For large parts, you can daub the excess water off quickly with a rag before dipping, so water is kept off the neutralizer better.
  • For other colors (darker black, military olive green tints, etc) we have developed a new product and technique when used with your Parkerizing results will produce enhanced coloring. It is used instead of the Neutralizer, and is relatively inexpensive addition, if you need it for your use. It is industrial, which contains lead in the synthetic resin, which can’t be eaten.

  CAUTION: Parkerizing Concentrate Contains Phosphoric Acid, Phosphates, and/or Mineral Acids. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If swallowed do not induce vomiting. Call a physician immediately. Keep from children. If contact with skin occurs, flush with water.

  CAUTION: Parkerizing Cleaner/Degreaser contains MethvI Alcohol. Poison. Keep from heat, sparks and open flame. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Call a physician immediately. Keep from children.

  CAUTION: Parkerizing Neutralizer contains Petroleum Distillates. Keep from heat sparks, and open flame. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Call a physician immediately. Keep from children.

  December 19 , 2003