ADDITIONAL NOTES supplementing with additional cautions on the last page.

Moly-Fusion™ for Shooting with a variety of calibers, guns, even MUCH more than guns too, since it is a chemical conversion coating. I think it is one of the most important discoveries for gun barrels and bolts.

NOTES: Always shake well the treatment-oil before each use, because the Paste intentionally settles so you can see there is a good amount there. The treatment oil has an easy-to-use flip-up dispenser cap for your convenience. Once shaken, it is mixed as long as it looks one color. Moly-Fusion Paste (looks like natural Peanut Butter at the health food store for a little mixing with the applicator is desired) is the 100% stuff (Not Moly-disulfide), so mixing a bit of treatment-oil or lightweight mineral oil into it as you are using will give the fastest reaction on surface metal. (As an aside, the reason the treatment oil today is twice the concentration of (now 2) years ago – for additional power.) Always mix it with liquid: how much you use is based on the surface area, and how aggressive you want it to react. Water with it is good at high temperatures. If you don’t have the paste, you need it.

An example of this other-than-gun-use what to use it on and not is for end mill and drill bit applications where you can mix the two together and tape off the portion to have friction so it wont turn in the chuck or fall out of the holding chuck. And don’t overdo it, as in too much reduced stiction! There is no Chlorine in it. Also block chamber against entry of solution if you are using the liquid and have pointed down just like the paste. In general, “treatment” includes additional treatment after each break-in of the treated metal, no matter level it is going into. The reason for this is because if metal is rubbing against metal in operation, the new high spots wear or “dimple” due to non stick lower parts, and then there is now smoother but exposed metal needing more treatment (of the newly exposed portion that was formerly high spots – even if there was 100% “wetting” (reaction) previously to the new MolyFusion-surface break-in) You must remember it is not a “paint” or un-reacted surface. See below for more technical detail. Keep in mind it is not just for guns, but gun bore use represents a commercial application. But not for lock-up points.

Moly-Fusion is a mechanical change in the way the surface metal behaves. Fusion: it combines with the existing metal in a high-Tech. chemistry process. (It will not react on top of itself. (This means you don’t have to worry about treating for too long. Also, stronger concentrate is for quicker, the oil for long term reaction – just like toothpaste is brushed continuously and mouth wash is used for “a longer contact.”) There is a need for three applications with wear in between because the surface needs to be broken in or cold formed under rubbing conditions so it doesn’t change during “rubbing” or bullets do their own thing during break in.

Heat to a point allows it to treat a greater amount of the surface metal, since metal expands with heat making it more porous, allowing for deeper penetration and more thorough reaction.)
Do not heat the barrel first without realizing too much is dangerous, and it is important not to even attempt this if you should accidentally heat it non-uniformly, too quickly, too high, etc, as the vibration effects – whip of the steel will be altered, changing things. You don’t want to mess with the “temper” or hardness of the steel. It is advised to get a 100% treatment to retreat twice not a great time after the first and second one. Sometimes treatment is only 90% on the first one and 90% of the remainder on the second one. If a first treatment seems to be wearing to quick, this is a reason. The treated portion does not get over treated, because it won’t treat itself. Double and triple treatments are necessary when full cleaning can’t be done to a 100% level together with treatment not 100% of 100% of the surface – apparently typical results.

One positive on precision metal, is it reduces cleaning from going on an hour of hard work and the continuous supply of material for that time to a few patches and a few to several minutes. 98% or more reduction in fouling volume has a significant impact on cleaning.

In some factory barrels it will not be possible to get the level of anti-fouling performance as precision barrels due to the permanent “roughness” of the rifling. Sometimes you will be able to get no residual copper by a good or series of polishing with JB Bore Paste, lapping, Flitz, or for worst cases carefully with diamond dust if it is not too bad. Don’t just treat the barrel, but the appendage(s) on it: compensator, etc.

In some precision high-power shooting and benchrest shooting for the minimum group sizes at or better than before it will be necessary to employ .1 – 1 grain more in powder and/or next-up faster burning powder, since you do not want to compress powder – too dangerous. You load up the powder and/or type of powder to get the velocity back. Due to reduced peak pressure, if the peak pressure is still reasonable and you did not treat the chamber, some people will secure some increased velocity, provided it is not to much velocity for minimum hole-group size. While it will never increase your accuracy reports are you can achieve higher practical accuracy due to being able to fine-tune the load to greater precision, the bore getting less vertical stringing per unit time, and not having the inherent accuracy dropping off after many rounds of shooting – and not being able to get it fully clean again in the field.

The above theory has been proven in a “cannon” 35 cal magnum, where the “tweaked” handload needed to be changed up or down 0.1 Grain of powder to net a drop from 1” group (2” typical best). at 100 yards to .75” Avg group size. Before the tweak, the previous “sweet” arrangement opened up to 2” Avg. group: or “even-par” accuracy. This is not good enough, so time to “tweak” for maximum accuracy: the benchrest way. It appears the metal and/or whatever has been slightly altered, but resulting accuracy is much better due to the “re-tweak” of grains/bullet/etc. Now the load is tweaked, the group size is now ½” to ¾” group Not bad for .358 Norma cast lead bullets at 100 yards. Retreating the barrel with the treatment-oil will cause a bigger still improvement, since it will work further into and on the metal. Ken from Washington treated a Ruger 10/22 22LR Barrel, trigger group, and action so it slides back more firmly, and he went from 2” groups at 50 Yards to ¼” 10 round rapid fire groups (Mechanics: 10 round clip in 10 seconds, 1 pound trigger pull.) 2” to ¼” 10-round rapid fire is an amazing improvement, and the local range master was extremely impressed in the group, and how spotless the barrel was. Note, I am not sure if the trigger pull reduction was already part of the 2” equation, or reflected in 2” to ¼”. Moly-Fusion was used in more than the barrel, so rapid fire would be more true.

Because metallurgy is changing, don’t expect the perfect load to be quite the same post-treatment – even taking velocity and peak pressure into account. Skill in loads to attain your new accuracy may help in some cases. There are NO claims implied or expressed Moly-Fusion can attain additional accuracy by itself – even though it does in many cases, especially with rimfire. It is a system you have to work with. This way, if you know you have to work with it, you will achieve much greater accuracy gains then using it blindly. To assist in treating: The barrel is not clean as long as there is any residue in the barrel – no matter how “shiny” it appears to the eye. Copper plating is shiny, and at first glance, appears to be steel, not copper. Therefore as long as a very strong ammonia-based copper cleaner results in any traces of blue out of the barrel, you are not done, no matter if you have gone through an entire bag of patches. With lead, as long as you can scrape lead out, it is not clean yet, and Moly-Fusion will have no impact whatsoever in a still-fouled (plated) bore, even if you are absolutely sure after a long time cleaning with whatever you are using that it is clean because it is “shiny” and appears to be clean to the naked eye.

See the second page for more tips regarding 22LR shooting. There has been a product “Wipe out”, but its name ma. It (as a chemical) appears to be the strongest on copper, although some customers speak of ruining barrels: Chrome-moly steel, and Moly-Fusion™ treated – (Not endorsing it: random use.)

Do NOT to treat the chamber as the brass will instantly engage the bolt face (timing) with force rather than being momentarily stuck in the chamber until it elongates. And no friction between case and chamber will result. The danger of this is in actions like the Savage Bolt Action, this can blow apart the action – immediately with high-pressure handloads, especially if the handload is increased greatly in charge to make up for reduction in secondary peak pressure. Timing of brass engaging the bolt face is very important. Even if it were safe for one shot, short-term use, etc. it WILL be unsafe either after many shots of “hammering” or at least eventually as the barrel treatment will change long before the chamber treatment will. Except for .22 rimfire, no rifles, and also caution with all equivalent-technology handguns.

The science of Moly-Fusion in the barrel may lend to a brand new crop of barrels with brand new twist rates and/or suggested bullet-loads to employ the new technology. Actions, Bolts, Rails, etc as applicable will be able to take advantage of the non-gritty feel of elimination of “stiction” where metal goes into the surface of the other, creating welding-type of friction. Be careful on bolt, hammer and sear ever on Semi-automatic, as it WILL change the dynamic timing in bullet recoil, making it come back to battery perhaps way too quickly and cause bad things to happen like multiple-fire for example.

As you begin to understand the new Science that is Moly-Fusion – on the market as Moly-Fusion since 1998, keep in mind it shows great promise for Automotive, Motorcycle, Marine 2 and 4-cycle engines, as well as lubrication areas that don’t require some “Stiction” to function: e.g. grab another surface, not back out like worm-gear/worm-drive, pre-loaded bearings, etc. (Pretend you have a no-friction grease without thickness after solvent you can’t solvent off - needing to sand off, for decision making designed for a competent Gunsmith.)

The reason for the increased amount per small investment is to encourage its use in larger applications than guns, which require vastly more product per application. The end-user License Agreement is to encourage more feedback and put under agreement everyone equally to preempt the commercial purchasing under a pseudo-name for covert treatment of things. All feedback and pictures, etc is encouraged both directly and any way you see fit. It is for Machine-Shop, Sports, Auto, Bike and bicycle, and more use as well as gun applications and gun bores - just like it says in the directions. For the most gun friendly online Forum, check out www.rimfirecentral.com – a leading resource for rimfire.

ADDITIONAL NOTES supplementing the ADDITIONAL NOTES.

Moly-Fusion™ for Shooting with a variety of calibers, guns, non-gun use, etc.

MolyFusion™ and 22LR absolute (paper printing) accuracy!

Because 22LR has been proven in precision shooting to be the most stable in flight At 1020-1100 fps from a performance barrel, the actual velocity stability will be identical in A Moly-Fusioned™ barrel (per directions), and even though the accuracy will be the same or slightly better (only) usually after treating DON’T be satisfied with an improvement!

Why?

Because actual velocity out of the muzzle is greater, you will have better repeatability for greater Rounds (more accuracy over a larger-than-normal group size), BUT the air stability will Be reduced, and detract from what would be the greatest increase in accuracy!

What: Switch to the next lower fps load, so you have the best overall accuracy you can now achieve.

When: When you have completed the 3 treatments with breakin (breaking shooting maybe with Treatment-oil introduced to the metal after cleaning between rounds as necessary) after the 1st and between the 2nd and 3rd session.

(Get the barrel finish stable (in as perfect a condition as you can) first. – It does not compete with hand lapping, but compliments it.)

Overall: You want better paper accuracy, as well as more repeatability. (I know that is a double positive in one sense – but I mean overall accuracy as well as individual groups. The more stable The bullet is in the air, the tighter the individual group, when best hole placement is more important in bullets that like to fly SLOW. (Some bullets are more stable FAST – but there is always with every caliber a “sweet spot” of maximum stability in the air, which of course is impacted how sweet it exits from the muzzle, the twist rate, the burn rate, the repeatability of how it exits from one round to the next, powder charge, bullet weight, case round, case thickness, case length, placement, etc., etc.)

It has been noted by some Blackpowder shooters that Moly-Fusion is being used more for Savage Blackpowder firearms, because the steel is so good – making it non-stick really improves the groups, and Thompson is using modern steel for their blackpowder barrels, and because of the modern steel, there should be a use for it as well, since it is manufactured to incredibly tight tolerances. (When the tolerances are tight, fouling effect on accuracy = 10X worse, but accuracy at its best is a close grouper, so making the steel surface behave itself with every round = a profound performance increase greater than smokeless powder use. (AND resistance to blackpowder is a big plus – even if a Savage version is used, and anti-fouling is still a “plus.”

So as larger and larger groups of people use it (a larger kit can be shared with friends – and customers are now buying multiple kits so the technology is more easily shared. ) Making the barrel bullet-proof as opposed to trying to make a bullet barrel-resistant or “butter” to reduce fouling is much more effective and efficient to 100% eliminate than to reduce by smearing something on every bullet (or coated) or “ bore butter” (blackpowder) onto every patch which can still build-up or be ineffective in some bores. Some additional blackpowder info has been added to the directions, but there is very little feedback on blackpowder use – unlike smokeless. Its usefulness as corrosion inhibiting would be one use in the modern blackpowder barrel – corrosion being a problem.

One advantage of using this in a bore and keeping its treatment is you should see approximately a 10X (I’m guessing 100X maximum) increase in throat life, and consequently accurate-barrel-life – something to enjoy at along with having a more bullet and heated-air resistant barrel, with less cleaning and more accurate shooting and more rounds shot well in the same amount of time.

SHOT GUN USE; Not sure about this. This is application sensitive, and be careful of locking break open action. Definitely a good final finish on choke tubes, it has been reported.

Caution!: For Break-open action, if you are treating the barrel, one additional place not to use it is on the top shelf, where there must be stiction between the metal surfaces to keep the action shut there.

It is not for general smooth bore use except when designed in as an integral component, or for choke problems in Skeet, Trap, and Clay, that having completely non-stick chokes will be an advantage in the speed-performance will be identical at the end of the day or weekend as it was when started, and there won’t be additional misses due to the normal radical changes in performance of the gun itself.

Even when shooting buck shot, not having plastic build will be a good thing for pattern. In a barrel made longer for the Moly-Fusion change, then it can be a good change.

Also, there will be an after-difference in the heat-up capability of the barrel itself – but I don’t know if it will be as ridiculous before and after on heat-up as it is in .17HMR, but the plastic fouling difference can be ridiculous: you are seeking ridiculous when it comes to fouling, not just an improvement like less heat-up per shot will occur, but it might take a thermal-reading measuring device to see the different before-and-after profile of less heat up and more rapid cooling capacity of the barrel and tube themselves. (Moly-Fusion™ itself has only been considered in rifles for the most part – not in shotguns and handguns, though both shotguns and handguns produce heat and friction.)

The Break-open action warning is from accidental trial and error on a NEF break-open action single-shot rifle barrel chambered for 25-06. For its anti-fouling use there, after multiple treatments with break in, in between, it took 2 shots of a cleaner and 9 patches total where an identical barrel untreated but polished took 5 hours of continuous work, multiple scrubbings, lots of patches, etc. This is what I mean by ridiculous effect. Virtually none and jam-packed full is a huge difference that any casual observer can determine, and not open to conjecture as “was it a tiny little bit better” or was it just feeling it might an improvement and maybe not. The purpose of Moly-Fusion™ in its pure form is to radically transform the surface of the metal to perform differently: like you suddenly have a non-stick and no-longer reactive surface to neither oxygen, carbon, nor even plastic, that is the metal itself, and reflect heat too, itself partially protected from corrosives salt and water and air and mild acid – even hydrochloric acid and water and air.

A double barrel over and under it was used for both anti-plastic fouling and pivot action, was tested in an application in lark one barrel at a time. One barrel remained clean and non-changing, but that was not a good contrasting effect by the end of competition! Needless to say the other side was treated to be likewise reduced build-up of plastic. That was a customer and buddy of a gunsmith that went by “XF2” at RimfireCentral.com years ago.

For pivot action and choke-tube use, the Treatment-oil is very powerful at its dilution ratio.

The pure Moly-Fusion is so concentrated that it always needs to be diluted with Treatment-oil when used, and/or with plain old distilled water, since it will mix with any petroleum or water.

More information on shotgun use will be added, but it should be noted it can be used for its secondary uses anywhere its primary use: grease on steroids where the grease eventually can’t be removed with solvents nor sandpaper, won’t cause a problem.

FAQ what is a small amount and how? The amount used is very small, keeping in mind the treatment oil, diluted 1:7 is quite strong, and 1/2 oz. by volume is used for a 4 Cyl engine through 5 quarts of motor oil. So a small amount say the size of a pea is plenty for the interior of a small caliber, but not a great deal per 12 gauge shotgun barrel, per treatment, considering its relative surface area to a 4 cylinder engine cylinder, I would think! Using treatment-oil as the dilution would mean less pure stuff to use. For treating barrels, while there is a mixing bottle, the barrel is usually the mixing tube.

Thank you in advance for any feedback and/or pictures you may give. Jonathan Doege, www.ShooterSolutions.com, help@ShooterSolutions.com (subject=help)- Sort of As shipped with Moly-Fusion Gun Kit directions up to 07/27/07