The reason for this name is not to be trademarky (has to be a lie), but rather tell the truth, tell people what they have always wanted, and be "a pun" or '"punny".
The ugly in being rugged, is conditions of the metal must be different than any other gun blue:
It can't just be clean like most, nor clean and the right finish like another, but it must be the correct finish and reactive.
One thing in the instructions is different than every single other one: you do not let it dry and "steel wool the dull to the final finish"
You while it remains wet with ACID you remove all the acid with water, and then you either dewater it with a displacing oil, or you remove it with heat: in wet environments use Isopropyl alcohol to displace the water with air, if your next step is something other than oil.
The reason the metal must be reactive is it is a conversion of the metal in its pure state to a rugged molecular state: so rugged that the result can be as hard as 260 degree hot blue nitric salts.
It is chemically much more complicated to achieve this, but similar to hot bluing, you need to force the metal surface to cooperate if it is the correct alloy:
Alloys that will not work will be any light-weight alloy for example including aluminum, or the old high nickel steel.
For Stainless Steels and maybe the high nickel if it blues like the 300 series as opposed to being a "'superalloy", under products Shooter Solutions.
When the "doer" understands it is not magic because it can work, then attention to detail becomes important.
The drawback to "rugged" with respect to ANY other gun blue regardless how expensive it is, like over a hundred dollars per quart, would be a lie.
However at least the old timers would like something that works.
PS the name of this page is an ancient name derived from a gun blue that is not sand-paper resistant kept alive because with modern CMS's, I can. I even found a way to do it with the homebrew shopping cart I had before the more modern Drupal.